eat! drink! shop!: Boulder's Pearl Street

Maria Cote, Rocky Mountain News

Monday, November 5, 2007

Aging hippies sporting Birkenstocks. Dreadlocked teens protesting the war. The sweet smell of patchouli wafting in the air.

All tired clichés of Boulder, right? You sure won't find many folks with peace-sign T-shirts and hemp clothing along the shiny new Twenty Ninth Street Mall.

But if you want to get away from chain stores and slip to the past (say, the '60s), visit Pearl Street.

We're not talking about the Downtown Mall, the part of Pearl that's closed to traffic. That popular stretch is a haven for college students, families with small children, and the young and beautiful.

We like that area, too, but for a serious slice of Bouldery goodness, visit the east end of Pearl and its independently owned stores.

Hungry or thirsty? Grab a microbrew at the Mountain Sun or an organic meal at Sunflower Restaurant. To support local ranchers and farmers - and good taste - head to Mateo. Crave Italian? The Gondolier on Pearl will call out to you.

If you have the urge to buy, no worries; you can pick up anything from bike gear at Full Cycle or Vecchio's Bicicletteri to high-quality antiques at Feather Thy Nest.

We've picked out a handful of places that hold strong to the funky soul of Boulder.

Starr's Clothing Co.

Happier outside than inside? Can't wait to hike this weekend? Those mountains calling, "Climb me"? We have a five-Starr recommendation for you. You'll find Levi's, Columbia Sportswear, Woolrich, Tommy Bahama and more at this family- owned business. Since 1914, people have been snatching up reasonably priced fleece, flannels, jackets, terrain sandals and mountaineering boots. An aside: Active women, check out Title Nine across the street for a wealth of wonderful choices.

Don't miss: Stylish Lucky Jeans for men, which start at $88.

• 1630 Pearl St.; 303-442-3056

Frasca Food & Wine

• 1738 Pearl St., 303-442-6966; frascafoodandwine.com

Open 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday (closed Sunday)

• See related story link above

Boulder Army Store

You'll find everything from the expected (sunglasses and ski jackets) to the unexpected (pretty pajamas and tropical shirts) at this quirky shop. The locally owned business has been around since 1948. While it's not much to look at outside, it's crammed full of clothing and sporting goods priced to delight loyal customers.

• Don't miss: The bargain bins and racks that are almost always set up outside the store. Be it a pair of flannel boxers for $2.98 or a ski hat for $5, you're sure to find something to make you reach for your wallet.

• 1545 Pearl St.; 303-442-7616

The Crystal Dragon

Incense. Lots and lots of it. Cards bedecked with fairies. Suspicious-looking smoking devices that all sport taped-on notes reading "For tobacco use only." Oh yeah. You're in the heart of town. All those clichés we've been talking about? Bring 'em on, baby.

• Don't miss: We were charmed by the gems in the gumball machine. For a mere 25 cents, we scored a shiny piece of amethyst and golden agate. Better than bubble gum, any day.

• 1521 Pearl St.; 303-786-8455

The Beat Book Shop

A sign in the window reads "Boulder's Oldest Independent Book & Record Shop." We suggest that if you're looking for books on metaphysics, mythology or the sciences, you check out Red Letter books just down the street. But if you're looking for 20th-century American writers and poets - say you're a fan of all things Jack Kerouac - then feel the Beat.

• Don't miss: An amazing assortment of collectible records.

• 1717 Pearl St.; 303-444-7111

Art & Soul Gallery

Even the design of this contemporary gallery is eye-catching, weaving across a long, narrow space. You'll stop to admire vibrant painting and displays of artful jewelry. You'll pause to admire pottery and sculpture. It's filled with art to make you think, art to make you smile and art that will simply awe you.

Don't miss: Visit by Nov. 25 to catch the show "Katrina to Colorado Saints Preserve Us." Former New Orleans artist Jimmy Descant creates found-object sculpture; make a purchase and some of that cash goes to the New Orleans Musician's Relief Fund.

• 1615 Pearl St.; 303-544-5803

Foolish Craig's

If you're craving something substantial for breakfast or lunch, check out the omelets, soups and sandwiches at this bohemian cafe. For dinner, sample steaks, chicken, seafood, pasta or entree crepes. Good news for parents: It's kid-friendly and has a liquor license.

Don't miss: The "whole thing" crepe +, filled with chocolate, bananas and walnuts, served with whipped or ice cream. We put on 5 pounds just looking at the concoction.

• 1611 Pearl St.; 303-247-9383

Aji

The vibrant colors inside this Latin American restaurant caught our eye as we passed by, so we stepped in for an appetizer and a cold one. We were immediately impressed with the décor. Go to check out the pre-Columbian artwork displayed on these walls. Don't miss the mural behind the bar by Venezuelan artist Beatriz Gomez. While you're admiring, dine on an ensalada or empanadas, or splurge on peanut- and-plantain encrusted yellowfin tuna.

Don't miss: Ceviche de Atun, a perfect balance of flavors, featuring yellowfin tuna, sesame, pickled peppers and mango, for $8.

• 1601 Pearl St.; 303-442-3464

Colorado Canines

Strolling with your pup? You won't want to miss this little shop, which bills itself as Boulder's first all-natural dog and cat "empawrium." Fido won't be able to resist bison jerky, a popular treat that's made at the store. The focus here is on nutrition - you won't find byproducts in any of the pet food or treats. The pup's human companion can enjoy coffee at a little cafe tucked away in the store. But unless you want to chew on a dog biscuit, bring your own food, humans.

Don't miss: The do-it-yourself dog spa. The business supplies everything you need - shampoo to brushes - except the dirty dog. It's $12 for one dog; bring two dogs and the second is $10.

• 1738 Pearl St., Suite 120; 303-449-5069, coloradocanines.com

Middle Fish

If you promised yourself to start your holiday shopping early this year, head to this longtime Boulder establishment. You'll find a gift for just about everyone on your list here, and best of all, you're supporting local artists. More than half the goods in here are from the Rocky Mountain region. You'll find glass wall tiles, ceramic wall plaques, distinctive frames and vases that would do any arrangement proud.

Don't miss: Colorful glass jewelry in many price ranges.

• 1500 Pearl St.; 303- 443- 0835

Don't miss!

• Switch on the Holidays. After 20 minutes of holiday caroling, Santa counts down to the grand illumination of the Pearl Street Mall, the County Courthouse and the star on Flagstaff Mountain.

• When: 5 p.m. Nov. 23

• Where: Courthouse Plaza on the Pearl Street Mall

Parking

• Some street parking is available along Pearl Street, but it's in short supply around the holidays. You'll have better luck at the parking garage at the corner of Pearl and 15th streets. It's free on Saturday and Sunday, reasonable during the week.